Chichen Itza Architecture

Chichen Itza, studied it, read about it, taught it to my 9th graders for two years. I take no great joy in saying it was the most disappointing of all of our visits to Mayan ruins. Sure the pyramid is impressive, but the site is grossly over-hyped. The hype is probably one of the reasons for the disappointment. I’m not saying not to visit Chichen Itza. I’ll probably visit it a second time just to make sure my first impressions weren’t off, but below you will read why we thought the site was such a disappointment.

Chichen Itza Observatory
A blissful moment of calm

History of Chichen Itza

Chichen Itza is one of the greatest and largest Mayan sites in Mexico. Chichen Itza means “at the well of the mouth of the Itza.”  Scholars have argued that Uuc Yabnal, as well as several possible variations is the true name of the site. The high point of Chichen Itza civilization was in AD 600, and lasted for five centuries. Spanish Conquistadors reached Chichen Itza in the 1530’s. John Lloyd Stephens rediscovered the site in the nineteenth century. In 1894 the U.S. Consul to the Yucatán purchased Chichen Itza, and all the surrounding land. He spent the next 30 years “exploring” (some say looting) Chichen Itza. You can read about his adventures in his autobiography, People of the Serpent.

Pyramid at Chichen Itza before the Crowds
15 minutes after opening
Pyramid at Chichen Itza about 9am
1 hour after opening

Over-Restored

Five summers working on archaeological digs all over the world has helped me experience archaeological sites at a whole new level. Perhaps that knowledge is why I think Chichen Itza is over-restored to the point of looking fake. The site dates from AD 600-1200. Where is the expected decay? Of course this is an exaggeration, there is definitely some decay, but many of the structures are just too prefect. For us that significantly detracted from the experience.

Chichen Itza What it really looks like
The pyramid at Chichen Itza, only 1/4 left in its natural state
Line to get into Chichen Itza at noon
The line to get into Chichen Itza at 12:30

The Crowds, Oh the Crowds!

Get there early they say. Beat the crowds they say. We were at Chichen Itza right when it opened at 8am. All of that planning only bought us about 15 minutes of merciful quiet. We were able to get a few photos of the pyramid, known as the Temple of Kukulcan, before the crowds showed up. Why do I say tourists & crowds and not travelers? Because the crowd at Chichen Itza was one of the most obnoxious we’ve met in our entire six weeks in Mexico (except for Cancun, but that’s another story).

Chichen Itza, it's all about the junk

The Commercialization

The commercialization was unbelievable! When you walk the streets of Chichen Itza you might as well be roaming the tourist stalls of Plaza 28 in Cancun. The vendors start setting up as soon as the park opens. They line every single spare inch of walkway and then some. The fake silver, the constant harassment, table after table of the same junk. Yes people have to make a living, but they should stay outside of the park like they do at the ruins of Coba and Tulum. Allowing street vendors to line the avenues of a world-class archaeological site detracts from its importance in more ways than one.

Drones at Chichen Itza
A badly worded English sign prohibiting drones

The Drones

Drones are completely banned at Chichen Itza. Did that matter to entitled tourists? Not in the least. The constant noise from drones buzzing about overhead was highly annoying. I don’t own a drone, but I think they are pretty cool. However I would not fly my drone at the cost of someone else’s experience.

Speaking of noise…

More Tourist Junk at Chichen Itza

The Noise

There’s absolutely no chance of quietly thinking about the significance of Chichen Itza because once the people start pouring in the clapping begins. Yes the clapping, in front of the pyramid, pretty much non stop. Some tour guide somewhere showed someone that their clapping :gasp: makes an echo in front of the pyramid. So it goes on all day long non-stop, and you can hear it from everywhere.

If the clapping isn’t enough noise pollution, the vendors are constantly blowing on an extremely loud jaguar whistle. It’s cute the first time, but after you hear it 500 times in a short span of time, the din becomes irritating. Add the clapping, jaguar whistles,overhead drones, and tourists screaming at each other to the constant yelling of vendors to look at their junk (and yes, it’s all junk), then the atmosphere becomes carnival-ish.

Chichen Itza Sacred Cenote
Sacred cenote at Chichen Itza (they found LOTS of treasure in there!)

It’s Not All Bad

Even with the annoyances described above, Chichen Itza is definitely worth visiting. How can I say to still visit after describing the letdown above? because it IS an important Mayan site. Someone definitely didn’t think out how they wanted to present this place. Maybe government has learned from the mistakes (archaeological atrocities?) at Chichen Itza because the chaos is absent from the 10 other Mayan sites we visited. Chichen Itza is one of the most famous and one of the oldest archaeological parks in Mexico (aside from Teotihuacan near Mexico city), and it’s worth enduring the hoards of tourists and noise to see it, at least once.

Iguana at Chichen Itza
I’m using a 200mm zoom lens, what you don’t see is a tourist stepping on me to get an iphone shot

Try and Spot the Wildlife

If you can find a quiet little corner of the park, you will be able to see amazing flora and fauna. Iguanas and colorful birds were everywhere, it it’s possible to hear them sing if you go far enough away from the “hot” tourist spots. Please just look and leave them alone, it breaks my heart every time I see tourists poking, chasing, and feeding the iguanas as if they are put on earth only for human entertainment.

A quiet Moment at Chichen Itza

There’s Real History Here

One of the highlights of visiting Chichen Itza walking the site while being intimately familiar with the history. Knowing all the history and being able to compare this site with the other ones that we have visited makes it an entirely different experience. I recommend you spend a few hours researching the site and Mayan history before you visit.

Chichen Itza Jaguar Paint

Even though my review of Chichen Itza is mostly negative, I would definitely visit again. If you go, I recommend staying in the town of Piste, so you can take your time and enjoy the site. Most of the tour buses stop in and unload people and then leave again in an hour. We were at Chichen Itza from 8am – 12:30pm and still didn’t see everything. We left because the combination of the heat and crowds was becoming unbearable.

Are you planning a visit to Chichen Itza? Have you been? We would love to hear your thoughts. Please send us an email or comment below.

 

 

 

2 Comments

  1. This does sound disappointing! I’m assuming the crowds are like this year-round? I had to click over to your post on Teotihuacan to see what you thought of it, as your experience at Chichen Itza sounds a lot like my experience there. I enjoyed Teotihuacan, but would like to go back someday at a less crowded time.

    • Hi Polly. We were actually at Chichen Itza during the low season. I can’t imagine what it’s like during the high season Nov-Apr.

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